D.C. punches above its weight when it comes to regional cuisine — from Uyghur restaurants to wafu pizza. Now, Chef Carlos Delgado — of acclaimed Peruvian restaurants Causa and Amazonia — is adding another to the portfolio, D.C.’s first nikkei-style hand roll restaurant, opening Feb. 20.
Maru San is a 25-seat counter in Eastern Market that will specialize in Japanese-Peruvian cuisine, also known as nikkei (knee-kay) cuisine. “ This is to teach people that [nikkei] cuisine exists in Peru and it's just part of the bigger umbrella that is Peruvian food,” said Delgado. Even the name of the restaurant is a hat tip to the Sakura Maru, a ship which brought the first Japanese immigrants to Peru.
Set the Scene
Located in a tiny row house, this dimly lit, first-come first serve restaurant feels both uniquely D.C. and also transportive. Despite its small size, every aspect of the design is intentional, from the 3D printed octopus chopstick holders to the Peruvian-made ceramics Delgado helped design to a massive hand-painted ceiling mural (also an octopus!).
Maru San interior. (Photo by Rey Lopez)
What’s On the Menu?
The menu centers on made-to-order handrolls, which diners can order via a paper dim sum menu and are meant to be eaten immediately. One roll is a play on classic Peruvian ceviche. “ It's a roll that tastes like ceviche. But we're not using lime, it's more about Japanese ingredients like dashi and soy sauce,” says Delgado. Others feature dry-aged fish, grilled scallops with parmesan, fatty tuna, and (of course) octopus.
Delgado recommends ordering around six per person with most rolls ranging between $7 and $13. “I wanted to provide that same high-end experience [as Causa], but for a lower ticket price,” said Delgado. He specified that he hopes it becomes a spot locals can frequent for a quick meal before continuing their night.
Delgado is also reserving a few seats each night for the “Maru Experience,” a high-end tasting experience of about 15 courses for $115 per person. The menu will include seasonal ingredients and more experimental nikkei dishes beyond just handrolls.
Chef Carlos Delgado cuts tuna for handrolls. (Photo by Rey Lopez)
When To Go
At first, Maru San will only be open for dinner Thursday through Monday, but there are plans to expand to lunch and dinner seven days a week. The restaurant is first-come, first-served, with the exception of four seats for the “Maru Experience,” which is currently booked through April.
😋 Inside Scoop: Where In DC Is Chef Delgado Eating?
Some of Delgado’s favorites come from D.C. chef power couple Matt Conroy and Isabel Coss, including Pascual in Capitol Hill and Lutèce in Georgetown. For something sweet he swears by Manifest Bread in Riverdale. “It’s delicious, they do a good job of everything that I've tried,” said Delgado.
