From Kabul to DC: How Shamim Popal Became One of DC's Most Successful Restaurateurs

Chef Shamim Popal and her family fled Afghanistan when the Soviet Union invaded in the 1980s, eventually coming to D.C. in 1987. Despite having no formal culinary training, she helped open a successful restaurant group alongside her husband and children, which includes Lutèce, Pascual, and Lapis. Popal still runs the kitchen at Lapis. She shared what it took to succeed in D.C.’s restaurant scene as a female immigrant and the dishes she is breaking fast with this Ramadan.

Culinary Style

Popal never expected to be a chef. In fact, she couldn’t even cook rice when she first left Afghanistan. But out of necessity, and not wanting her kids to be stuck eating dismal American fast food options, she grew a passion for it. Through endless phone calls with her mother-in-law, she mastered classic Afghan dishes and started experimenting with her own recipes. Eventually, her family convinced her to open her own restaurant — Lapis.

Popal herself eats a mainly plant-based diet, and prioritizes healthy, fresh ingredients that she would serve her family. “My main goal is to cook healthy,” says Popal. “I want to make sure that our guests come back again and again.” Her menu favorites include the Afghan dumplings, the lamb shank, and the spiced kabobs.

Bringing Afghan Ramadan Traditions To DC

Every year, Lapis serves a special menu during Ramadan. The dishes are based on the home-cooked meals Popal enjoyed as a child living in Kabul before fleeing the war in the 80s. She makes Nask soup specifically for the holy month, with lentils, veggies, and herbs, because it’s comforting and packed with nutrients needed after fasting. “Whatever we eat at home, I offer to our guests,” says Popal. This includes traditions like starting with dates to break the fast and sipping doogh, a cucumber mint yogurt drink.

Advice For Emerging Women Chefs

There are more women in D.C.’s restaurant industry now than when Popal first came on the scene 22 years ago, but she emphasised how difficult it still is for women in the industry. “It’s such a challenging path,” said Popal, “you need to be very passionate about what you do.” Her biggest piece of advice for upcoming chefs is to take care of yourself first. “If you don’t take care of yourself, you can't be successful at your job,” says Popal.

😋 Inside Scoop: Where In DC Is Popal Eating?

“Being a chef, I get so picky, because you can tell what is fresh and homemade,” said Popal. She gravitates towards Italian restaurants on her days off and gave a special shout out to the new Osteria Mozza in Georgetown.